News
Basic knowledge of textile
Release time:
2013-03-18 01:15
Source:
1. Cotton: Cotton fiber is the fiber covered on cotton seeds, referred to as cotton. The cotton fiber from which the cottonseed is removed is called lint or raw cotton.
Variety: According to the thickness, length and strength of the fiber, raw cotton can generally be divided into three categories: long-staple cotton, fine-staple cotton and coarse cotton.
Structure: Cotton fiber is a tubular body with one end open, which shrinks into a hollow ribbon after maturity and drying. The main component of the cotton fiber wall is cellulose with a high degree of polymerization. In the dried mature cotton fiber, the content of cellulose is more than 95%, which is a highly pure cellulose resource in nature.
Performance: cotton fiber is generally thin and soft, the skin feels more comfortable. It has a strong moisture absorption capacity. In general, cotton fibers are stronger wet than dry. The elasticity is poor, and the cellulose can be used as anti-wrinkle finishing to make it have better shape retention. Cotton fiber has better warmth retention. At high temperature, the plasticity is better. Cotton fiber such as long time contact with the sun, the strength is reduced, the fiber will be hard and brittle: in case of oxidizing agents, bleaching powder or dyes with oxidation properties, the fiber strength will also be reduced, and brittle and hard.
2, hemp: hemp fiber is the earliest human clothing textile raw materials.
Variety: ramie and flax
Structure: the chemical composition of ramie fiber in cellulose is generally 65% ~ 75%. The fiber after degumming is white and shiny and good fiber, called lean hemp. In Japan, also known as ramie fabric is silk hemp fabric. Flax cellulose accounted for 70% ~ 80%.
Performance: hemp fabric feels stiff, wrinkle recovery is very poor, poor wear resistance; Poor heat resistance, washing resistance; Good moisture absorption and moisture release, good air permeability and poor dyeing.
3, hair.
Variety: cotton wool-in the textile wool in the narrow sense often refers to cotton wool. Cashmere, also known as cashmere, is a valuable textile raw material.
Structure: Wool fiber belongs to protein fiber, mainly composed of scale layer, cortex layer and medulla layer.
Performance: The strength of wool fiber is poor, but the elasticity is good, the wool fabric is stiff, not easy to wrinkle, and the plasticity is strong. Wool fiber heat retention is better than other fibers, moisture absorption and air permeability are better. Acid resistance is good, alkali resistance can be poor, sunshine time should not be too long. But susceptible to moth and mildew.
Silk: Silk is the only long fiber in natural fibers.
Varieties: silkworm, tussah silkworm, castor silkworm, cassava silkworm, etc., with the best quality of silkworm.
Structure: Silk is composed of silk fibroin and sericin.
Performance: mulberry silk-good moisture absorption, water resistance, water permeability, light resistance and heat resistance. Tussah silk-poor dyeing, easy to produce water stains. Double palace silk-poor luster, thick fabric, unique style. Spun silk-processed from waste silk, waste cocoon, cocoon clothing, etc., with good luster, strength, warmth retention and moisture absorption, but easy to fluff after washing.
5. Chemical fiber: Chemical fiber refers to fibers made from natural or artificial polymer materials. It can be divided into recycled fibers and synthetic fibers according to different sources of raw materials.
Variety: regenerated fiber (regenerated cellulose fiber, rich and strong fiber) synthetic fiber (polyester, nylon, acrylic, vinylon, chlorinated fiber, spandex)
Properties: Regenerated cellulose fiber-feel weak, soft, good gloss, moisture absorption, good air permeability, good dyeing; but wet fastness, poor elasticity.
Rich and strong fiber-strength, wear-resistant, small shrinkage, good elasticity and alkali resistance.
Polyester-good elasticity, good strength and abrasion resistance, not easy to deformation; but poor moisture absorption, airtight, easy to fluffing, ball.
Nylon-high strength, good wear resistance; Moisture absorption, poor permeability, easy fluffing, ball.
Acrylic-also known as synthetic wool, moisture absorption is not good enough, poor wear resistance.
Vinylon-also known as synthetic cotton, moisture absorption is very good, wear resistance, light resistance and corrosion resistance are better.
Chlorinated fiber-strong chemical corrosion resistance, good thermal insulation performance; but poor heat resistance.
Spandex-also known as Lycra, excellent elasticity. It is generally plied with other fibers or made into core-spun yarns.
spinning
1. Yarn: Yarn is a continuous fiber bundle made of short fibers collected by twisting.
Variety:
1. According to the thickness of yarn: coarse special yarn, medium special yarn and fine special yarn
2. According to the textile process: combed yarn, carded yarn
3. According to the dyeing processing: primary color yarn, dyed yarn, color spinning yarn, bleached yarn, mercerized yarn
4. According to the spinning method: ring spinning, air spinning, electrostatic spinning, vortex spinning
5. According to the length of the fiber: cotton yarn, long yarn, wool yarn, filament yarn
2. Line: Line is made of two or more single yarns and twisted, or strands.
Variety:
1, according to the yarn shape structure: single yarn, strand, multi-strand, fancy line, deformed yarn
2, according to the composition of the yarn fiber type: pure spinning yarn, blended yarn
3. By use: weaving yarn, knitting yarn, pile yarn, sewing yarn, special industrial yarn
Performance:
Line density-refers to the thickness of the yarn, according to national standards, called Tex, abbreviated as Tex, the symbol is Tex, 1tex = 1 g/km.
Twist-the number of twists per unit length of yarn. The twist of the yarn is directional, with Z twist and S twist. Generally, the single yarn is Z-twisted, the plied yarn is S-twisted, and the plied yarn is generally expressed by Z/S.
Moisture regain --- Because the moisture absorption of fibers and yarns changes with the surrounding environment, the moisture regain of various textile materials is uniformly stipulated in commercial trade for the convenience of pricing.
Moisture regain (%)= 100 × (wet weight-dry weight)/dry weight
Ebb moisture regain of yarn
The type of yarn, the rate of moisture regain
Cotton Yarn 8.5 (Imperial 9.89)
flax yarn 12.0
Ramie Yarn 10.0
Combed wool yarn 16.0
Carded wool 15.0
Spun Silk 11.0
Viscose yarn and filament 13.0
Nylon yarn and filament 4.5
Polyester Yarn and Filament 0.4
Acrylic Yarn 2.0
Vylon yarn 5.0
Polyester/Cotton Yarn (65/35) 3.2 (Imperial 3.7)
3. weaving
1. White blank: cloth woven with primary color cotton yarn without bleaching, dyeing and printing, collectively referred to as primary color cloth. Generally called gray cloth.
Variety: gray cloth is divided into city cloth, ordinary city cloth, fine cloth, coarse cloth, twill cloth, foreskin cloth, etc.
2. Yarn-dyed fabric: Yarn-dyed fabric is made of bleached or multi-colored cotton, wool, silk, hemp and chemical fiber yarns, which are woven by the change of fabric organization.
Varieties: Yarn-dyed fabrics have a wide range of varieties and organizational specifications, and are also widely used.
Performance:
1. The use of different colors of yarn and fabric to form a variety of beautiful pattern, than the general printed cloth has a three-dimensional sense.
2. Due to the use of raw yarn dyeing, dye penetration is strong, so the color fastness is better.
3. When weaving, multi-shuttle and multi-arm machines are used to weave different fibers or yarns into varieties with rich colors and smart patterns.
4. Due to the use of color yarns or color yarns and various organizational changes, cotton yarns of poor quality can still be woven into beautiful varieties.
3. Jacquard
Jacquard is further divided into color jacquard and structural jacquard. Color jacquard refers to a fabric made of yarns of different colors, that is, yarn-dyed fabric. Structural jacquard refers to the fabric woven with the same color yarn according to different interweaving methods. It has a three-dimensional structure and a concave-convex feeling.
4. dyeing and finishing
1. Dyeing: Dyeing is a process in which dyes and fibers are physically or chemically combined to make textile materials dyed in color.
Variety:
1) direct dyes, reactive dyes, sulfur dyes, vat dyes and insoluble azo dyes, mainly used for cotton fiber dyeing.
2) Acid dyes and acid mordant dyes are used for dyeing protein fibers such as wool and silk.
3) Disperse dyes are mainly used for dyeing polyester and nylon.
4) Cationic dyes are mainly used for acrylic dyeing.
Performance: dyeing requires uniform color, good color fastness, including sun, climate, soaping fastness.
2. Printing: Printing is the process of applying printing patterns on textiles with dyes or pigments.
Variety:
Direct printing-the printing paste is printed on white or light-colored fabrics and processed by steaming.
Discharge printing-the fabric is first dyed with a background color, and then printed with a dyeing agent.
Anti-dyeing printing-adding anti-dyeing agent to the printing paste to make the dyeing appear irregular.
Transfer printing-the use of disperse dyes in the case of thermal sublimation properties for dyeing.
3. Finishing: After the fabric is washed, dyed and printed, the process of further improving the quality of the fabric through physical or chemical methods is called finishing.
Variety: cotton, linen fabric finishing, silk fabric finishing, wool finishing, chemical fibers and their blends, interwoven fabric finishing
Performance: Through finishing, the fabric width is neat and uniform or the size and shape are stable. Improve the feel of the fabric; Improve the appearance of the fabric; Improve other taking functions (waterproof, anti-oil, anti-microbial, etc.); Increase the functionality of the fabric and improve the added value of the fabric (anti-ultraviolet, anti-mildew, moth)
5. Clothing Manufacturing
1. Cut out terms
1) Split potential: the deviation of a straight line, such as the deviation at the upper end of the inner flap of the door.
2) Warping: the improvement of the horizontal line, such as the distance between the bottom line and the long clothing line of the upper swing seam.
3) Trapped potential: straight line deviation, such as pants side seam pants potential refers to the deviation amount at the upper end of the back pants piece and side seam.
4) concave potential: armhole door, pants front and rear hole door concave degree.
5) Painting: Single-piece painting refers to drawing cutting lines directly on raw materials according to styles and specifications.
6) Cut: Cut into pieces according to the drawing lines.
7) Eye knife: cut a small gap in a certain part of the cutting piece for positioning marks.
8) Drill hole: a hole made on the cutting piece as a positioning mark.
9) Change pieces: Change pieces that do not meet the quality requirements.
10) Spare parts: sporadic accessories other than the main panels such as trousers and skirts.
11) Silk lock: the warp direction, weft direction and oblique direction of the fabric, also known as straight silk lock, horizontal silk lock and oblique silk lock.
12) radian: a curved line, such as an armhole arc.
13) against the knife: eye knife and eye knife or eye knife and seam opposite.
14) Noodles: the welt on the inside of the door.
15) Lost: refers to some loose raw materials, which are lost one by one after being cut.
2. Recognition of front and back of fabric
1) According to the weave recognition of the fabric: the common weave has three kinds of plain weave, twill weave and satin weave. The front and back of plain weave fabrics are not much different in appearance, so there is often no positive and negative points; twill fabrics can be divided into yarn fabrics and thread fabrics. The square grain of the twill of the yarn fabric is clear, and the surface grain of the fabric is the front. The front and back lines of the thread fabric are more obvious, and the front line is a prime; Satin fabric is divided into warp satin and weft satin. The front warp of warp satin emerges more, the front weft of weft satin emerges more, the front of satin fabric is relatively smooth and glossy, the back weave is not obvious, and the luster is relatively dull.
2) According to the pattern and color of the fabric, identify: the pattern and pattern of various fabrics are clear and clean on the front, with obvious pattern lines, distinct levels and bright colors; The reverse side is relatively light and fuzzy.
3) according to the fabric jacquard, jacquard stripes identification: jacquard fabric front stripes or patterns are more obvious, clear line outline, gloss are net and beautiful.
4) According to the identification of the fabric edge: the front side of the general fabric edge is smoother and clearer than the reverse side; the edge of the reverse side is curled inward. Some fabrics have words woven on the edge of the cloth. The words on the front are written clearly and smoothly, while those on the back are blurred.
5) Identification according to the factory seal: some fabrics are stamped with circular factory seals within 5cm of the corners at both ends, and the general seal is stamped on the front.
3. Shrinkage test
The reason for the shrinkage of the fabric is that the fabric itself has hygroscopicity and is drawn and bent during the weaving process. After printing and dyeing, it is elongated and widened, so that the fiber or yarn is continuously deformed by external force and is temporarily stable during drying. However, the deformed parts recover rapidly after encountering moisture and heating and ironing, thus causing severe shrinkage. The size of the shrinkage mainly depends on the mechanical strength of the textile production process, and is related to the size of the fabric warp and weft density. Commonly used fabric shrinkage test methods are the following four:
1. Natural shrinkage test
Through the method of ventilation, the fabric is naturally retracted by the influence of outside air, wind, light, heat and water vapor. The test method is to disassemble, relax and put the whole folded raw material for 24 hours and then retest to calculate the shrinkage rate.
2. Dry scalding shrinkage test
The dry ironing shrinkage rate refers to the degree of shrinkage of raw materials after heating by ironing. The method is to iron back and forth on the raw materials according to the highest temperature that the raw materials can withstand, measure its length and width after cooling, and then compare with the length and width of raw materials before ironing to calculate the shrinkage rate.
3. Spray shrinkage test
Water spray shrinkage refers to the shrinkage of raw materials by spraying water to make them damp. Spray the raw materials of the sample with clean water to make the water uniform, then knead the raw materials of the sample with hands, smooth them, dry them in the room with natural ventilation, iron them after drying, and calculate the shrinkage rate after not stretching.
4. Water immersion shrinkage test
Water immersion shrinkage test refers to immersing the sample raw material in water to make it shrink, immersing the sample raw material in clean warm water at 60 ℃, kneading it by hand, immersing it in water for 15 minutes, then taking it out, folding the sample raw material in half, then folding it into a square, pressing the water by hand, leveling it and drying it to calculate the shrinkage.
4. Discharge
The discharge requires reasonable sleeve discharge and reasonable splicing. Reasonable arrangement refers to the arrangement of drawing samples that save materials on the premise of ensuring the quality of clothing pieces. Sleeve is to make full use of parts and components of different shapes reasonable sleeve row. The parts and components of the garment are different. When drawing samples, we should make full use of the different angles, bending potential and other shapes of the clothing pieces for sleeve arrangement.
Reasonable discharge should be compact and reduce voids. Reasonable splicing. In order to improve the utilization rate of raw materials, appropriate splicing is allowed in the secondary parts of some parts. During the discharge, the splicing parts, the number of spliced pieces and the splicing locks shall be carried out in accordance with the relevant technical regulations and the requirements of the wearer, and the splicing seams and the splicing locks shall not be arbitrarily increased. Splicing must do the following:
1. Minimize sewing trouble
2. Comply with the splicing scope and silk lock regulations allowed by the product style
3. Obtain the wearer's permission
4. The splicing part shall be marked with the marking of the knife.
Single-piece discharge refers to single-piece cutting discharge, and industrial cutting generally refers to multi-piece discharge. There is a certain gap between the requirements of single-piece discharge and precision discharge, and the material saving is limited to a certain extent, so the consumption is more than that of general industrial discharge. Single-piece discharge is the basis of industrial discharge. To master the knowledge of discharge, we must first learn single-piece discharge. How to choose the best discharge scheme, in order to achieve the purpose of saving materials, is a continuous exploration of the subject. The basis of the arrangement is generally based on the style, and at the same time, the general common door width and plain clothing are the main, regardless of the pattern, pattern, reverse hair and other factors of the clothing. The style and structure of the discharge are different, and the number of materials used is not equal. Estimated material usage:
1.90cm wide (door width)
Jacket: can be cross cut: (length 7)× 2 sleeve length 7
Cut in the same direction: (length 7)× 2 sleeve length 6 collar width
Skirt: (skirt length 10)× 2
Pants: (pants length 10)× 2
2.144cm wide (door width)
Jacket: length 7 sleeve length 6
Skirt: skirt length 10
Pants: long pants
5. Cut
Cutting is a technical work, it is difficult to make up for the loss after the wrong. Therefore, cutting requires certain technical knowledge and practical operation experience, and only after repeated practical operation can we master the cutting technology.
Before cutting, carefully check the cut pieces, especially the more complex ones. Check whether the drawing line is clear, whether the contour line is obvious, and whether the positioning mark is fully drawn and accurately drawn. The quality requirements for cutting are as follows:
1. The cutting edges around the cutting piece shall be straight, round, smooth and square, and there shall be no skew notch or zigzag.
2. The combination of cutting pieces is accurate, and the left and right symmetrical cutting pieces should be symmetrical in length and size.
3. The eye knife and drill hole are accurate. The position of the eye knife and the depth of the eye knife should be accurate. Generally, it is appropriate to have a depth of 0.4~0.5cm at the 1cm seam. The depth of the eye knife is related to the texture performance of the raw material and the size of the seam. In principle, we can not only see the mark clearly, but also ensure that the eye knife maintains a certain fastness after sewing. The upper and lower layers of the drill hole are vertical, and the size of the drill hole is appropriate. As a drill hole with a fixed seam width, it should be drilled beside the seam to ensure that the drill hole is not exposed after the seam is sewn. The drill hole indicating the bag position should be drilled accurately according to the drawing sample, and cannot enter and exit again, so as not to expose the drill hole after bagging.
6. excipients
1. Buttons: Buttons were originally fasteners dedicated to clothing connections.
Variety: synthetic material buttons, natural material buttons, combination buttons, metal buttons
Features:
Synthetic material buttons-bright color, rich shape, cheap; but poor high temperature resistance, easy to pollute the environment.
Natural material buttons-natural shape, strong decoration; high hardness, high temperature resistance, cleaning resistance.
Combination buttons-can be combined at will.
Button model size: (resin buttons, for example)
Button outer diameter (mm) = button model × 0.635
Button model and outer diameter size comparison table
Button Model Button Outer Diameter Button Model Button Outer Diameter
14 8.89 34 21.59
16 10.16 36 22.86
18 11.43 40 25.40
24 15.24 44 27.94
28 17.78 54 34.29
32 20.32
2. Sewing thread: thread for sewing textile materials, plastics, leather products and books. It must have seamability, durability and appearance quality.
Variety: natural fiber type (cotton thread, hemp thread, silk thread); Chemical fiber type (polyester thread, nylon thread, textile thread); Hybrid type (polyester-cotton blended thread, polyester-cotton core-spun thread)
Performance:
Cotton sewing thread-good heat resistance, elasticity, abrasion resistance, moisture resistance, anti-bacterial ability is poor, suitable for high-speed sewing and durable pressing.
Polyester sewing thread-high strength, stitch flat quite beautiful, wear-resistant; No mildew, low price, rich color, not easy to fade, not wrinkle.
Polyester cotton sewing thread-made of 65% polyester staple fiber and 35% cotton fiber blend, the thread has high strength, good abrasion resistance, small shrinkage, good flexibility and elasticity, and good heat resistance. Can sew all kinds of clothing.
Nylon sewing thread-strong stretch, good elasticity, smooth texture, silk luster, excellent wear resistance.
Nylon thread-high breaking strength, good wear resistance, low moisture absorption, high elasticity, but the heat resistance is not enough, generally controlled at about 120 ℃. It is generally used for sewing chemical fiber fabrics, woolen fabrics, woolen sweaters, etc.
Vinylon thread-low price, high breaking strength, lower abrasion resistance than nylon thread, good chemical stability, mainly sewing all kinds of flour bags, cloth rubber shoes upper, canvas, buckle eye, nail buckle, etc.
Silk thread --- smooth surface, soft luster, good elasticity, high temperature resistance. Used for sewing woolen clothing, satin fabrics; rayon colorful, but poor strength, moisture absorption is very poor, the price is cheaper. Mostly used for machine embroidery.
Main Specifications of Sewing Thread and Examples of Sewing Objects
1, cotton wax light main specifications and sewing object table
Specification tex (British) twist t/10cm sewing object
10*4(60/4) Printing and Binding
10*6(60/6) 52~56 rubber shoes, umbrellas, hats, backpacks, binding
14*3(42/3) 75~79 clothing, shoes and hats
14*5(42/5) 56~60 printing and dyeing sewing cloth joints, leather parts, plastic bags
14*6(42/6) 50~54 rubber shoes, printing and dyeing sewing cloth joints, binding
18*3(32/3) 67~71 labor protection clothing, thin canvas, binding
18*5(32/5) 55~59 travel bags, schoolbags, leather, rubber shoes
18*9(32/9) 42~46 Spindle Joint, Canopy Sail, Leather Shoes
28*6(21/6) 47~51 canvas, upper, binding
36*2(16/2) 64~68 hand sewing kit
36*3(16/3) 50~54 hand sewing kit
2, cotton without light main specifications and sewing object table
Specification tex (British) twist t/10cm sewing object
28*4(21/4) 51~55 flour bag, cotton blanket hemming
18*3(32/3) 67~71 cotton-padded jacket, nail buckle, keyhole, shoe making
18*6(32/6) 60~64 nail buckle, keyhole, shoe making
14*3(42/3) 75~79 clothing hem, straw hat and pillow mat hem
14*5(42/5) 56~60 printing and dyeing sewing cloth joints, cloth shoes upper
14*6(42/6) 68~72 Shoe Making
10*6(60/6) 52~56 oilcloth umbrella, rubber shoes
7.5*6(80/6) Thin Cotton Underwear
3, cotton light main specifications and sewing object table
Specification tex (British) twist t/10cm sewing object
7.5*3(80*3) 108~112 thin cotton sweater pants
7.5*4(80/4) 90~94 thin cotton sweater pants
10*3(60/3) 93~96 all kinds of cotton sweater pants, handkerchief sewing edge
10*4(60/4) 52~56 khaka, corduroy clothing
12*6(50/6) 86~90 thick cotton underwear
14*3(42/3) 75~79 inner coat overcoat, shirt pants
14*6(42/6) 50~54 Printing and Dyeing Sewing Cloth Joints, Shoemaking, Book Binding
19.5*2(30/2) 82~86 Hovering, Shirt Pants
3, adhesive lining: also known as chemical lining, adhesive lining cloth surface with a layer of adhesive, through a certain temperature and appropriate pressure, the adhesive lining and fabric together.
Variety: Woven bonded interlining cloth, knitted bonded interlining cloth, non-woven bonded interlining
Function: the rationalization of sewing, labor-saving; the formation of a beautiful shape; to prevent wearing deformation; to improve the performance of fabrics and clothing.
Internal quality requirements of adhesive interlining
Item woven interlining
woven interlining (for shirts)
non-woven interlining (for outerwear)
Peeling strength not less than N/5 × 10cm 18 12 8
Dry heat dimensional change
Not less than% warp
Latitude -1.0
-1.0 -1.5
-1.0 -1.5
-1.5
Wash Size Change
Not less than% warp
Latitude -1.5
-1.5 -2.5
-2.0 -1.3
-1.0
Appearance change after adhesive washing is not less than the number of water washing
Level 5
4 2
4 2
4
Number of dry cleaning
Grade--
-- 5
4 5
4
Size change after adhesive washing% warp
Latitude -2.0
-2.0 -3.0
-2.5
Breaking strength not less than the warp direction
60% of weft gray fabric
50% of gray fabric 60% of gray fabric
50% of gray cloth
Permeable material performance non-permeable material non-permeable material non-permeable material
Anti-aging performance Anti-aging Anti-aging Anti-aging
Main indicators and influencing factors
1) Peel strength: refers to the force required when the adhesive lining is peeled from the bonded fabric, and the unit is N/5cm × 10cm. If not, the higher the peeling strength, the better.
2) Dimensional change rate: It is divided into dry heat dimensional change, water washing dimensional change, and adhesive washing dimensional change. Refers to the interlining in the use of the process of line change-elongation or contraction, the degree of elongation or contraction with the dimensional change rate (%) to express. Dimensional change rate = (length of sample after test-length of sample before test)/length of sample before test × 100%
3) Washing resistance: including chemical dry cleaning resistance and water washing resistance. It is identified by the number of washing and whether there is degumming and foaming after washing.
Sample for evaluation of washable appearance of interlining
Level Appearance
Grade I severe blistering
Secondary local blistering
Grade III surface is uneven and wrinkled
Grade 4 Slightly wrinkled, no blistering
Level 5 surface is smooth, wrinkle-free and bubble-free
4. Zipper: It is a connecting piece composed of two flexible and mutually engaging unilateral tooth chains that can be repeatedly pulled and opened.
Variety:
Zipper material classification table
material category metal zipper copper zipper, aluminum zipper, cast zinc zipper resin zipper cast zipper (plastic zipper) material: polyoxymethylene reinforced zipper material: nylon 6 polyester zipper spiral zipper spiral zipper, invisible zipper, woven zipper
double bone zipper
Specifications:
Zipper specification sheet
No. Item Model (#) 2 3 4 5 6 8 9 10
1 metal zipper specifications 3.5 4.5 5.2 6.0-7.8 * ~ 8.0-9.0
Chain tooth thick 2.5±0.04 3.0±0.04 3.4±0.04 3.8±0.04 --- 4.5±0.04 --- 5.6±0.04.
With single-width 11±0.5 13±0.5 13±0.5 15±0.5 --- 17±0.5 --- 20±0.5.
2 injection zipper specifications -4.5 5.3*6.0 6.7*8.0-9.0
Chain tooth thickness -2.4 2.4 2.6~3.0 2.6 3.0~4.0-3.0~4.0
With single width --- 13±0.5 13±0.5 15±0.5 15±0.5 17±0.5 --- 20±0.5
3 spiral zipper specifications 3.5~3.8 4.0~4.5 5.0*5.8~6.0 6.6 * ~ 6.7 7.2~7.3 8.0 * ~ 8.1 9.0~10.5
Chain tooth thick 1.2±0.04 1.5±0.04 1.8±0.04 2.25±0.05 2.35±0.05 2.45±0.05 2.65±0.06 2.9±0.06
15±0.5 15±0.5 17±0.5 20±0.5 20±0.5 with single wide 11±0.5 13±0.5 13±0.5
4 reinforced zipper specifications -4.2*-6.2 *
Thickness of chain teeth -1.5±0.04-2.8±0.04
With single width -13±0.5-15±0.5
5 invisible zipper specifications -4.2*5.0 *
Thickness of chain teeth -1.5±0.04 1.6±0.04
With single width -13±0.5 13±0.5
6 braided zipper specifications -4.0 4.6 *
Thickness of chain teeth -1.4±0.04 1.4±0.04
With single width -13±0.5 13±0.5
7 double bone zipper specifications -4.1 *
Thickness of chain tooth -2.0±0.04
With single width -13±0.5
5, lace: refers to a variety of patterns for decorative strip fabric, used as a variety of clothing, curtains, tablecloths, bedspreads, pillowcases and other inlay or inlay. Category:
Woven lace-also known as thread lace. Mainly 13.9 ~ 5.8tex cotton bleached, colored yarn as raw material for warp, weft with cotton yarn, rayon, gold and silver thread as the main raw material. It can be used for dresses, fashion, woolen sweaters, shirts, underwear and other types of clothing.
Water soluble lace --- is a kind of embroidery lace. Divided into machine embroidery and hand embroidery. It uses water-soluble non-woven fabric as the base fabric, uses viscose filament as the embroidery thread, and then uses the computer tablet embroidery machine to make the water-soluble non-woven fabric melt after hot water treatment, leaving the three-dimensional lace. Can be applied to all kinds of clothing and decorative items.
Warp Knitted Lace-Knitted Lace is made by warp knitting machine.
Woven lace-woven by a jacquard mechanism to control the weaving of warp and weft threads. It is used more in minority patterns.
6. Lining: It is usually called lining cloth, which refers to the material used to cover the inside of the garment. Classification: natural fiber lining (cotton lining, silk lining), regenerated cellulose fiber lining (viscose fiber lining, copper ammonia fiber lining, acetate fiber lining), synthetic fiber lining (polyester lining, nylon lining)
List of varieties and specifications of lining
Name of longitude and latitude density root/10cm
(root or inch) warp tex (denier) weft tex (denier) basic structure
Wax twill 150(38)× 110(28) 13.3(120) with light viscose 18(32s) cotton yarn change twill
Wax thread feather yarn 177(45)× 110(28) 13.3(120) with light viscose yarn 28(21s) cotton yarn four twills
Feather Yarn 188.5(48)× 10.25(26) 13.3(120) Optical Viscose 28(21s) Cotton Yarn Four Twill
Human silk twill 216(55)× 110(28) 13.3(120) light viscose 13.3(120) light viscose four twill
Human silk feather yarn 165(42)× 114(29) 13.3(120) light viscose yarn 13.3(120) light viscose yarn four twills
Light satin feather yarn 196.5(50)× 122(31) 13.3(120) light viscose 13.3(120) light viscose five satins
Beautiful silk 283.5(72)× 139(37) 13.3(120) light viscose 13.3(120) light viscose four twill
New Feather Satin 196.5(50)× 122(31) 13.3(120) Light Vinegar Silk 13.3(120) Light Vinegar Silk Five Satins
Glitter silk 255.5(65)× 150(38) 13.3(120) with light viscose silk 8.3(75) acetate silk 2/2 twill
Acetic acid silk 196.5(50)× 130(33) 6.7(60) Acetic acid silk 7.2(65) Acetic acid silk plain weave
Copper Ammonia Twill 165(42)× 130(33) 8.3(75) Copper Ammonia Herringhair 11.1(100) Copper Ammonia Herringhair Twill
Plain Nylon Spinning 165(42)× 130(33) 7.8(70) Semi-gloss Nylon 7.8(70) Semi-gloss Nylon Plain
Twill Nylon Spinning 228(58)× 138(35) 7.8(70) Semi-gloss Nylon 7.8(70) Semi-gloss Nylon 2/1 Twill
Polyester beautiful silk 196.5(50)× 157.5(40) 7.5(68) semi-gloss polyester 8.3(75) gloss polyester 1/2 twill
230t Nylon Spinning 181(46)× 142(36) 7.8(70) Semi-gloss Nylon 7.8(70) Semi-gloss Nylon Plain
210t nylon spinning 228(58)× 157.5(40) 7.8(70) semi-gloss nylon 7.8(70) semi-gloss nylon plain weave
250t Nylon Spinning 165(42)× 130(33) 7.8(70) Semi-gloss Nylon 7.8(70) Semi-gloss Nylon Plain
190t polyester taffeta 181(46)× 142(36) 7.5(68) semi-gloss polyester 7.5(68) semi-gloss polyester plain weave
210t polyester taffeta 196.5(50)× 157.5(40) 7.5(68) semi-gloss polyester 7.5(68) semi-gloss polyester plain weave
230t polyester taffeta 196.5(50)× 157.5(40) 7.5(68) semi-gloss polyester 7.5(68) semi-gloss polyester plain weave
Fine grain silk 220(56)× 138(35) 7.5(68) semi-gloss polyester 8.3(75) polyester low stretch 1/2 twill
Star and Moon Satin 346(88)× 150(38) 5.5(50) Light Special-shaped Silk 8.7(75) Polyester Low-elastic Silk Five Satin
Cold Star Satin 259.5(66)× 126(32) 8.3(75) Light Special-Shaped Silk 11.1(100) Polyester Low-stretch Silk Five Satin
Brocade Satin 259.5(66)× 126(32) 8.3(75) Light Special-shaped Silk 11.1(100) Polyester Low-elastic Silk Five Satin
Power Satin 236(60)× 165(42) 2.2(20) Mulberry Silk 2.2(20) Mulberry Silk Plain
Foreign 199(50.5)× 165(42) 2.2(20) Mulberry Silk 2.2(20) Mulberry Silk Plain
Cotton gray cloth 236(60)× 228(58) 28(21s) cotton yarn 28(21s) cotton yarn plain weave
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From April 20 to April 26 this year, the National intellectual property publicity week was jointly organized by the intellectual property Office, the Central propaganda Department and the General Administration of Market Supervision, together with the Supreme people's Court, the Supreme people's Procuratorate, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, the Development and Reform Commission, the Ministry of Education, the Ministry of Science and Technology, the Ministry of Industry and Information Technology, the Ministry of Public Security, the Ministry of Justice, the Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Affairs, the Ministry, the Ministry, the Ministry, the Ministry, the Ministry of Commerce, the Ministry, the Ministry of Culture, the Ministry, national synchronization. The theme of this year's publicity week is "intellectual property transformation and application to promote high-quality development".
Fenji set sail again and ride on the dragon to compose a new chapter.
On February 16 (the sixth day of the Spring Festival in the Year of the Dragon), CCTV 13-News Channel broadcast the news that employees of Changyuan Textile and other key enterprises took the Spring Festival charter flights led by Fuzhou Human Resources and Social Security Department to return to work one after another. As of today (February 18), the employees of Changyuan Textile who have returned home for the New Year have basically returned to the company and devoted themselves with full enthusiasm to the production and operation of "setting sail again and making a new chapter on the dragon" after the festival. On the production lines of Changyuan Textile's 9 workshops, workers have concentrated on patrol inspection and operation. Thousands of spinning equipment have been operating at full capacity in the production processes of flower cleaning, carding, slimming, roving, spinning, winding and packaging. In the main control room of the digital system, the large LED color display screen scrolls and updates the real-time data of production quality, as well as scene information such as labor, equipment, energy consumption and production environment temperature and humidity. The Spring Festival of the Year of the Dragon is in good luck. In 2024, various production and operation management tasks and KPI performance indicators will be further broken down and issued for implementation.
Recently, the China Textile Industry Federation announced the results of the 2023 National Textile Industry Labor Skills Competition. Sun Yuanxiu, the head coach of the spinning operator of Fujian Changyuan Textile Co., Ltd., won the honor of "National Textile Industry Technical Expert". The competition results were 18. Ranked first among the winners of the National Textile Industry Labor Skills Competition with this honor.
Basic knowledge of textile
Release time:
2013-03-18 01:15
Source:
1. Cotton: Cotton fiber is the fiber covered on cotton seeds, referred to as cotton. The cotton fiber from which the cottonseed is removed is called lint or raw cotton.
Variety: According to the thickness, length and strength of the fiber, raw cotton can generally be divided into three categories: long-staple cotton, fine-staple cotton and coarse cotton.
Structure: Cotton fiber is a tubular body with one end open, which shrinks into a hollow ribbon after maturity and drying. The main component of the cotton fiber wall is cellulose with a high degree of polymerization. In the dried mature cotton fiber, the content of cellulose is more than 95%, which is a highly pure cellulose resource in nature.
Performance: cotton fiber is generally thin and soft, the skin feels more comfortable. It has a strong moisture absorption capacity. In general, cotton fibers are stronger wet than dry. The elasticity is poor, and the cellulose can be used as anti-wrinkle finishing to make it have better shape retention. Cotton fiber has better warmth retention. At high temperature, the plasticity is better. Cotton fiber such as long time contact with the sun, the strength is reduced, the fiber will be hard and brittle: in case of oxidizing agents, bleaching powder or dyes with oxidation properties, the fiber strength will also be reduced, and brittle and hard.
2, hemp: hemp fiber is the earliest human clothing textile raw materials.
Variety: ramie and flax
Structure: the chemical composition of ramie fiber in cellulose is generally 65% ~ 75%. The fiber after degumming is white and shiny and good fiber, called lean hemp. In Japan, also known as ramie fabric is silk hemp fabric. Flax cellulose accounted for 70% ~ 80%.
Performance: hemp fabric feels stiff, wrinkle recovery is very poor, poor wear resistance; Poor heat resistance, washing resistance; Good moisture absorption and moisture release, good air permeability and poor dyeing.
3, hair.
Variety: cotton wool-in the textile wool in the narrow sense often refers to cotton wool. Cashmere, also known as cashmere, is a valuable textile raw material.
Structure: Wool fiber belongs to protein fiber, mainly composed of scale layer, cortex layer and medulla layer.
Performance: The strength of wool fiber is poor, but the elasticity is good, the wool fabric is stiff, not easy to wrinkle, and the plasticity is strong. Wool fiber heat retention is better than other fibers, moisture absorption and air permeability are better. Acid resistance is good, alkali resistance can be poor, sunshine time should not be too long. But susceptible to moth and mildew.
Silk: Silk is the only long fiber in natural fibers.
Varieties: silkworm, tussah silkworm, castor silkworm, cassava silkworm, etc., with the best quality of silkworm.
Structure: Silk is composed of silk fibroin and sericin.
Performance: mulberry silk-good moisture absorption, water resistance, water permeability, light resistance and heat resistance. Tussah silk-poor dyeing, easy to produce water stains. Double palace silk-poor luster, thick fabric, unique style. Spun silk-processed from waste silk, waste cocoon, cocoon clothing, etc., with good luster, strength, warmth retention and moisture absorption, but easy to fluff after washing.
5. Chemical fiber: Chemical fiber refers to fibers made from natural or artificial polymer materials. It can be divided into recycled fibers and synthetic fibers according to different sources of raw materials.
Variety: regenerated fiber (regenerated cellulose fiber, rich and strong fiber) synthetic fiber (polyester, nylon, acrylic, vinylon, chlorinated fiber, spandex)
Properties: Regenerated cellulose fiber-feel weak, soft, good gloss, moisture absorption, good air permeability, good dyeing; but wet fastness, poor elasticity.
Rich and strong fiber-strength, wear-resistant, small shrinkage, good elasticity and alkali resistance.
Polyester-good elasticity, good strength and abrasion resistance, not easy to deformation; but poor moisture absorption, airtight, easy to fluffing, ball.
Nylon-high strength, good wear resistance; Moisture absorption, poor permeability, easy fluffing, ball.
Acrylic-also known as synthetic wool, moisture absorption is not good enough, poor wear resistance.
Vinylon-also known as synthetic cotton, moisture absorption is very good, wear resistance, light resistance and corrosion resistance are better.
Chlorinated fiber-strong chemical corrosion resistance, good thermal insulation performance; but poor heat resistance.
Spandex-also known as Lycra, excellent elasticity. It is generally plied with other fibers or made into core-spun yarns.
spinning
1. Yarn: Yarn is a continuous fiber bundle made of short fibers collected by twisting.
Variety:
1. According to the thickness of yarn: coarse special yarn, medium special yarn and fine special yarn
2. According to the textile process: combed yarn, carded yarn
3. According to the dyeing processing: primary color yarn, dyed yarn, color spinning yarn, bleached yarn, mercerized yarn
4. According to the spinning method: ring spinning, air spinning, electrostatic spinning, vortex spinning
5. According to the length of the fiber: cotton yarn, long yarn, wool yarn, filament yarn
2. Line: Line is made of two or more single yarns and twisted, or strands.
Variety:
1, according to the yarn shape structure: single yarn, strand, multi-strand, fancy line, deformed yarn
2, according to the composition of the yarn fiber type: pure spinning yarn, blended yarn
3. By use: weaving yarn, knitting yarn, pile yarn, sewing yarn, special industrial yarn
Performance:
Line density-refers to the thickness of the yarn, according to national standards, called Tex, abbreviated as Tex, the symbol is Tex, 1tex = 1 g/km.
Twist-the number of twists per unit length of yarn. The twist of the yarn is directional, with Z twist and S twist. Generally, the single yarn is Z-twisted, the plied yarn is S-twisted, and the plied yarn is generally expressed by Z/S.
Moisture regain --- Because the moisture absorption of fibers and yarns changes with the surrounding environment, the moisture regain of various textile materials is uniformly stipulated in commercial trade for the convenience of pricing.
Moisture regain (%)= 100 × (wet weight-dry weight)/dry weight
Ebb moisture regain of yarn
The type of yarn, the rate of moisture regain
Cotton Yarn 8.5 (Imperial 9.89)
flax yarn 12.0
Ramie Yarn 10.0
Combed wool yarn 16.0
Carded wool 15.0
Spun Silk 11.0
Viscose yarn and filament 13.0
Nylon yarn and filament 4.5
Polyester Yarn and Filament 0.4
Acrylic Yarn 2.0
Vylon yarn 5.0
Polyester/Cotton Yarn (65/35) 3.2 (Imperial 3.7)
3. weaving
1. White blank: cloth woven with primary color cotton yarn without bleaching, dyeing and printing, collectively referred to as primary color cloth. Generally called gray cloth.
Variety: gray cloth is divided into city cloth, ordinary city cloth, fine cloth, coarse cloth, twill cloth, foreskin cloth, etc.
2. Yarn-dyed fabric: Yarn-dyed fabric is made of bleached or multi-colored cotton, wool, silk, hemp and chemical fiber yarns, which are woven by the change of fabric organization.
Varieties: Yarn-dyed fabrics have a wide range of varieties and organizational specifications, and are also widely used.
Performance:
1. The use of different colors of yarn and fabric to form a variety of beautiful pattern, than the general printed cloth has a three-dimensional sense.
2. Due to the use of raw yarn dyeing, dye penetration is strong, so the color fastness is better.
3. When weaving, multi-shuttle and multi-arm machines are used to weave different fibers or yarns into varieties with rich colors and smart patterns.
4. Due to the use of color yarns or color yarns and various organizational changes, cotton yarns of poor quality can still be woven into beautiful varieties.
3. Jacquard
Jacquard is further divided into color jacquard and structural jacquard. Color jacquard refers to a fabric made of yarns of different colors, that is, yarn-dyed fabric. Structural jacquard refers to the fabric woven with the same color yarn according to different interweaving methods. It has a three-dimensional structure and a concave-convex feeling.
4. dyeing and finishing
1. Dyeing: Dyeing is a process in which dyes and fibers are physically or chemically combined to make textile materials dyed in color.
Variety:
1) direct dyes, reactive dyes, sulfur dyes, vat dyes and insoluble azo dyes, mainly used for cotton fiber dyeing.
2) Acid dyes and acid mordant dyes are used for dyeing protein fibers such as wool and silk.
3) Disperse dyes are mainly used for dyeing polyester and nylon.
4) Cationic dyes are mainly used for acrylic dyeing.
Performance: dyeing requires uniform color, good color fastness, including sun, climate, soaping fastness.
2. Printing: Printing is the process of applying printing patterns on textiles with dyes or pigments.
Variety:
Direct printing-the printing paste is printed on white or light-colored fabrics and processed by steaming.
Discharge printing-the fabric is first dyed with a background color, and then printed with a dyeing agent.
Anti-dyeing printing-adding anti-dyeing agent to the printing paste to make the dyeing appear irregular.
Transfer printing-the use of disperse dyes in the case of thermal sublimation properties for dyeing.
3. Finishing: After the fabric is washed, dyed and printed, the process of further improving the quality of the fabric through physical or chemical methods is called finishing.
Variety: cotton, linen fabric finishing, silk fabric finishing, wool finishing, chemical fibers and their blends, interwoven fabric finishing
Performance: Through finishing, the fabric width is neat and uniform or the size and shape are stable. Improve the feel of the fabric; Improve the appearance of the fabric; Improve other taking functions (waterproof, anti-oil, anti-microbial, etc.); Increase the functionality of the fabric and improve the added value of the fabric (anti-ultraviolet, anti-mildew, moth)
5. Clothing Manufacturing
1. Cut out terms
1) Split potential: the deviation of a straight line, such as the deviation at the upper end of the inner flap of the door.
2) Warping: the improvement of the horizontal line, such as the distance between the bottom line and the long clothing line of the upper swing seam.
3) Trapped potential: straight line deviation, such as pants side seam pants potential refers to the deviation amount at the upper end of the back pants piece and side seam.
4) concave potential: armhole door, pants front and rear hole door concave degree.
5) Painting: Single-piece painting refers to drawing cutting lines directly on raw materials according to styles and specifications.
6) Cut: Cut into pieces according to the drawing lines.
7) Eye knife: cut a small gap in a certain part of the cutting piece for positioning marks.
8) Drill hole: a hole made on the cutting piece as a positioning mark.
9) Change pieces: Change pieces that do not meet the quality requirements.
10) Spare parts: sporadic accessories other than the main panels such as trousers and skirts.
11) Silk lock: the warp direction, weft direction and oblique direction of the fabric, also known as straight silk lock, horizontal silk lock and oblique silk lock.
12) radian: a curved line, such as an armhole arc.
13) against the knife: eye knife and eye knife or eye knife and seam opposite.
14) Noodles: the welt on the inside of the door.
15) Lost: refers to some loose raw materials, which are lost one by one after being cut.
2. Recognition of front and back of fabric
1) According to the weave recognition of the fabric: the common weave has three kinds of plain weave, twill weave and satin weave. The front and back of plain weave fabrics are not much different in appearance, so there is often no positive and negative points; twill fabrics can be divided into yarn fabrics and thread fabrics. The square grain of the twill of the yarn fabric is clear, and the surface grain of the fabric is the front. The front and back lines of the thread fabric are more obvious, and the front line is a prime; Satin fabric is divided into warp satin and weft satin. The front warp of warp satin emerges more, the front weft of weft satin emerges more, the front of satin fabric is relatively smooth and glossy, the back weave is not obvious, and the luster is relatively dull.
2) According to the pattern and color of the fabric, identify: the pattern and pattern of various fabrics are clear and clean on the front, with obvious pattern lines, distinct levels and bright colors; The reverse side is relatively light and fuzzy.
3) according to the fabric jacquard, jacquard stripes identification: jacquard fabric front stripes or patterns are more obvious, clear line outline, gloss are net and beautiful.
4) According to the identification of the fabric edge: the front side of the general fabric edge is smoother and clearer than the reverse side; the edge of the reverse side is curled inward. Some fabrics have words woven on the edge of the cloth. The words on the front are written clearly and smoothly, while those on the back are blurred.
5) Identification according to the factory seal: some fabrics are stamped with circular factory seals within 5cm of the corners at both ends, and the general seal is stamped on the front.
3. Shrinkage test
The reason for the shrinkage of the fabric is that the fabric itself has hygroscopicity and is drawn and bent during the weaving process. After printing and dyeing, it is elongated and widened, so that the fiber or yarn is continuously deformed by external force and is temporarily stable during drying. However, the deformed parts recover rapidly after encountering moisture and heating and ironing, thus causing severe shrinkage. The size of the shrinkage mainly depends on the mechanical strength of the textile production process, and is related to the size of the fabric warp and weft density. Commonly used fabric shrinkage test methods are the following four:
1. Natural shrinkage test
Through the method of ventilation, the fabric is naturally retracted by the influence of outside air, wind, light, heat and water vapor. The test method is to disassemble, relax and put the whole folded raw material for 24 hours and then retest to calculate the shrinkage rate.
2. Dry scalding shrinkage test
The dry ironing shrinkage rate refers to the degree of shrinkage of raw materials after heating by ironing. The method is to iron back and forth on the raw materials according to the highest temperature that the raw materials can withstand, measure its length and width after cooling, and then compare with the length and width of raw materials before ironing to calculate the shrinkage rate.
3. Spray shrinkage test
Water spray shrinkage refers to the shrinkage of raw materials by spraying water to make them damp. Spray the raw materials of the sample with clean water to make the water uniform, then knead the raw materials of the sample with hands, smooth them, dry them in the room with natural ventilation, iron them after drying, and calculate the shrinkage rate after not stretching.
4. Water immersion shrinkage test
Water immersion shrinkage test refers to immersing the sample raw material in water to make it shrink, immersing the sample raw material in clean warm water at 60 ℃, kneading it by hand, immersing it in water for 15 minutes, then taking it out, folding the sample raw material in half, then folding it into a square, pressing the water by hand, leveling it and drying it to calculate the shrinkage.
4. Discharge
The discharge requires reasonable sleeve discharge and reasonable splicing. Reasonable arrangement refers to the arrangement of drawing samples that save materials on the premise of ensuring the quality of clothing pieces. Sleeve is to make full use of parts and components of different shapes reasonable sleeve row. The parts and components of the garment are different. When drawing samples, we should make full use of the different angles, bending potential and other shapes of the clothing pieces for sleeve arrangement.
Reasonable discharge should be compact and reduce voids. Reasonable splicing. In order to improve the utilization rate of raw materials, appropriate splicing is allowed in the secondary parts of some parts. During the discharge, the splicing parts, the number of spliced pieces and the splicing locks shall be carried out in accordance with the relevant technical regulations and the requirements of the wearer, and the splicing seams and the splicing locks shall not be arbitrarily increased. Splicing must do the following:
1. Minimize sewing trouble
2. Comply with the splicing scope and silk lock regulations allowed by the product style
3. Obtain the wearer's permission
4. The splicing part shall be marked with the marking of the knife.
Single-piece discharge refers to single-piece cutting discharge, and industrial cutting generally refers to multi-piece discharge. There is a certain gap between the requirements of single-piece discharge and precision discharge, and the material saving is limited to a certain extent, so the consumption is more than that of general industrial discharge. Single-piece discharge is the basis of industrial discharge. To master the knowledge of discharge, we must first learn single-piece discharge. How to choose the best discharge scheme, in order to achieve the purpose of saving materials, is a continuous exploration of the subject. The basis of the arrangement is generally based on the style, and at the same time, the general common door width and plain clothing are the main, regardless of the pattern, pattern, reverse hair and other factors of the clothing. The style and structure of the discharge are different, and the number of materials used is not equal. Estimated material usage:
1.90cm wide (door width)
Jacket: can be cross cut: (length 7)× 2 sleeve length 7
Cut in the same direction: (length 7)× 2 sleeve length 6 collar width
Skirt: (skirt length 10)× 2
Pants: (pants length 10)× 2
2.144cm wide (door width)
Jacket: length 7 sleeve length 6
Skirt: skirt length 10
Pants: long pants
5. Cut
Cutting is a technical work, it is difficult to make up for the loss after the wrong. Therefore, cutting requires certain technical knowledge and practical operation experience, and only after repeated practical operation can we master the cutting technology.
Before cutting, carefully check the cut pieces, especially the more complex ones. Check whether the drawing line is clear, whether the contour line is obvious, and whether the positioning mark is fully drawn and accurately drawn. The quality requirements for cutting are as follows:
1. The cutting edges around the cutting piece shall be straight, round, smooth and square, and there shall be no skew notch or zigzag.
2. The combination of cutting pieces is accurate, and the left and right symmetrical cutting pieces should be symmetrical in length and size.
3. The eye knife and drill hole are accurate. The position of the eye knife and the depth of the eye knife should be accurate. Generally, it is appropriate to have a depth of 0.4~0.5cm at the 1cm seam. The depth of the eye knife is related to the texture performance of the raw material and the size of the seam. In principle, we can not only see the mark clearly, but also ensure that the eye knife maintains a certain fastness after sewing. The upper and lower layers of the drill hole are vertical, and the size of the drill hole is appropriate. As a drill hole with a fixed seam width, it should be drilled beside the seam to ensure that the drill hole is not exposed after the seam is sewn. The drill hole indicating the bag position should be drilled accurately according to the drawing sample, and cannot enter and exit again, so as not to expose the drill hole after bagging.
6. excipients
1. Buttons: Buttons were originally fasteners dedicated to clothing connections.
Variety: synthetic material buttons, natural material buttons, combination buttons, metal buttons
Features:
Synthetic material buttons-bright color, rich shape, cheap; but poor high temperature resistance, easy to pollute the environment.
Natural material buttons-natural shape, strong decoration; high hardness, high temperature resistance, cleaning resistance.
Combination buttons-can be combined at will.
Button model size: (resin buttons, for example)
Button outer diameter (mm) = button model × 0.635
Button model and outer diameter size comparison table
Button Model Button Outer Diameter Button Model Button Outer Diameter
14 8.89 34 21.59
16 10.16 36 22.86
18 11.43 40 25.40
24 15.24 44 27.94
28 17.78 54 34.29
32 20.32
2. Sewing thread: thread for sewing textile materials, plastics, leather products and books. It must have seamability, durability and appearance quality.
Variety: natural fiber type (cotton thread, hemp thread, silk thread); Chemical fiber type (polyester thread, nylon thread, textile thread); Hybrid type (polyester-cotton blended thread, polyester-cotton core-spun thread)
Performance:
Cotton sewing thread-good heat resistance, elasticity, abrasion resistance, moisture resistance, anti-bacterial ability is poor, suitable for high-speed sewing and durable pressing.
Polyester sewing thread-high strength, stitch flat quite beautiful, wear-resistant; No mildew, low price, rich color, not easy to fade, not wrinkle.
Polyester cotton sewing thread-made of 65% polyester staple fiber and 35% cotton fiber blend, the thread has high strength, good abrasion resistance, small shrinkage, good flexibility and elasticity, and good heat resistance. Can sew all kinds of clothing.
Nylon sewing thread-strong stretch, good elasticity, smooth texture, silk luster, excellent wear resistance.
Nylon thread-high breaking strength, good wear resistance, low moisture absorption, high elasticity, but the heat resistance is not enough, generally controlled at about 120 ℃. It is generally used for sewing chemical fiber fabrics, woolen fabrics, woolen sweaters, etc.
Vinylon thread-low price, high breaking strength, lower abrasion resistance than nylon thread, good chemical stability, mainly sewing all kinds of flour bags, cloth rubber shoes upper, canvas, buckle eye, nail buckle, etc.
Silk thread --- smooth surface, soft luster, good elasticity, high temperature resistance. Used for sewing woolen clothing, satin fabrics; rayon colorful, but poor strength, moisture absorption is very poor, the price is cheaper. Mostly used for machine embroidery.
Main Specifications of Sewing Thread and Examples of Sewing Objects
1, cotton wax light main specifications and sewing object table
Specification tex (British) twist t/10cm sewing object
10*4(60/4) Printing and Binding
10*6(60/6) 52~56 rubber shoes, umbrellas, hats, backpacks, binding
14*3(42/3) 75~79 clothing, shoes and hats
14*5(42/5) 56~60 printing and dyeing sewing cloth joints, leather parts, plastic bags
14*6(42/6) 50~54 rubber shoes, printing and dyeing sewing cloth joints, binding
18*3(32/3) 67~71 labor protection clothing, thin canvas, binding
18*5(32/5) 55~59 travel bags, schoolbags, leather, rubber shoes
18*9(32/9) 42~46 Spindle Joint, Canopy Sail, Leather Shoes
28*6(21/6) 47~51 canvas, upper, binding
36*2(16/2) 64~68 hand sewing kit
36*3(16/3) 50~54 hand sewing kit
2, cotton without light main specifications and sewing object table
Specification tex (British) twist t/10cm sewing object
28*4(21/4) 51~55 flour bag, cotton blanket hemming
18*3(32/3) 67~71 cotton-padded jacket, nail buckle, keyhole, shoe making
18*6(32/6) 60~64 nail buckle, keyhole, shoe making
14*3(42/3) 75~79 clothing hem, straw hat and pillow mat hem
14*5(42/5) 56~60 printing and dyeing sewing cloth joints, cloth shoes upper
14*6(42/6) 68~72 Shoe Making
10*6(60/6) 52~56 oilcloth umbrella, rubber shoes
7.5*6(80/6) Thin Cotton Underwear
3, cotton light main specifications and sewing object table
Specification tex (British) twist t/10cm sewing object
7.5*3(80*3) 108~112 thin cotton sweater pants
7.5*4(80/4) 90~94 thin cotton sweater pants
10*3(60/3) 93~96 all kinds of cotton sweater pants, handkerchief sewing edge
10*4(60/4) 52~56 khaka, corduroy clothing
12*6(50/6) 86~90 thick cotton underwear
14*3(42/3) 75~79 inner coat overcoat, shirt pants
14*6(42/6) 50~54 Printing and Dyeing Sewing Cloth Joints, Shoemaking, Book Binding
19.5*2(30/2) 82~86 Hovering, Shirt Pants
3, adhesive lining: also known as chemical lining, adhesive lining cloth surface with a layer of adhesive, through a certain temperature and appropriate pressure, the adhesive lining and fabric together.
Variety: Woven bonded interlining cloth, knitted bonded interlining cloth, non-woven bonded interlining
Function: the rationalization of sewing, labor-saving; the formation of a beautiful shape; to prevent wearing deformation; to improve the performance of fabrics and clothing.
Internal quality requirements of adhesive interlining
Item woven interlining
woven interlining (for shirts)
non-woven interlining (for outerwear)
Peeling strength not less than N/5 × 10cm 18 12 8
Dry heat dimensional change
Not less than% warp
Latitude -1.0
-1.0 -1.5
-1.0 -1.5
-1.5
Wash Size Change
Not less than% warp
Latitude -1.5
-1.5 -2.5
-2.0 -1.3
-1.0
Appearance change after adhesive washing is not less than the number of water washing
Level 5
4 2
4 2
4
Number of dry cleaning
Grade--
-- 5
4 5
4
Size change after adhesive washing% warp
Latitude -2.0
-2.0 -3.0
-2.5
Breaking strength not less than the warp direction
60% of weft gray fabric
50% of gray fabric 60% of gray fabric
50% of gray cloth
Permeable material performance non-permeable material non-permeable material non-permeable material
Anti-aging performance Anti-aging Anti-aging Anti-aging
Main indicators and influencing factors
1) Peel strength: refers to the force required when the adhesive lining is peeled from the bonded fabric, and the unit is N/5cm × 10cm. If not, the higher the peeling strength, the better.
2) Dimensional change rate: It is divided into dry heat dimensional change, water washing dimensional change, and adhesive washing dimensional change. Refers to the interlining in the use of the process of line change-elongation or contraction, the degree of elongation or contraction with the dimensional change rate (%) to express. Dimensional change rate = (length of sample after test-length of sample before test)/length of sample before test × 100%
3) Washing resistance: including chemical dry cleaning resistance and water washing resistance. It is identified by the number of washing and whether there is degumming and foaming after washing.
Sample for evaluation of washable appearance of interlining
Level Appearance
Grade I severe blistering
Secondary local blistering
Grade III surface is uneven and wrinkled
Grade 4 Slightly wrinkled, no blistering
Level 5 surface is smooth, wrinkle-free and bubble-free
4. Zipper: It is a connecting piece composed of two flexible and mutually engaging unilateral tooth chains that can be repeatedly pulled and opened.
Variety:
Zipper material classification table
material category metal zipper copper zipper, aluminum zipper, cast zinc zipper resin zipper cast zipper (plastic zipper) material: polyoxymethylene reinforced zipper material: nylon 6 polyester zipper spiral zipper spiral zipper, invisible zipper, woven zipper
double bone zipper
Specifications:
Zipper specification sheet
No. Item Model (#) 2 3 4 5 6 8 9 10
1 metal zipper specifications 3.5 4.5 5.2 6.0-7.8 * ~ 8.0-9.0
Chain tooth thick 2.5±0.04 3.0±0.04 3.4±0.04 3.8±0.04 --- 4.5±0.04 --- 5.6±0.04.
With single-width 11±0.5 13±0.5 13±0.5 15±0.5 --- 17±0.5 --- 20±0.5.
2 injection zipper specifications -4.5 5.3*6.0 6.7*8.0-9.0
Chain tooth thickness -2.4 2.4 2.6~3.0 2.6 3.0~4.0-3.0~4.0
With single width --- 13±0.5 13±0.5 15±0.5 15±0.5 17±0.5 --- 20±0.5
3 spiral zipper specifications 3.5~3.8 4.0~4.5 5.0*5.8~6.0 6.6 * ~ 6.7 7.2~7.3 8.0 * ~ 8.1 9.0~10.5
Chain tooth thick 1.2±0.04 1.5±0.04 1.8±0.04 2.25±0.05 2.35±0.05 2.45±0.05 2.65±0.06 2.9±0.06
15±0.5 15±0.5 17±0.5 20±0.5 20±0.5 with single wide 11±0.5 13±0.5 13±0.5
4 reinforced zipper specifications -4.2*-6.2 *
Thickness of chain teeth -1.5±0.04-2.8±0.04
With single width -13±0.5-15±0.5
5 invisible zipper specifications -4.2*5.0 *
Thickness of chain teeth -1.5±0.04 1.6±0.04
With single width -13±0.5 13±0.5
6 braided zipper specifications -4.0 4.6 *
Thickness of chain teeth -1.4±0.04 1.4±0.04
With single width -13±0.5 13±0.5
7 double bone zipper specifications -4.1 *
Thickness of chain tooth -2.0±0.04
With single width -13±0.5
5, lace: refers to a variety of patterns for decorative strip fabric, used as a variety of clothing, curtains, tablecloths, bedspreads, pillowcases and other inlay or inlay. Category:
Woven lace-also known as thread lace. Mainly 13.9 ~ 5.8tex cotton bleached, colored yarn as raw material for warp, weft with cotton yarn, rayon, gold and silver thread as the main raw material. It can be used for dresses, fashion, woolen sweaters, shirts, underwear and other types of clothing.
Water soluble lace --- is a kind of embroidery lace. Divided into machine embroidery and hand embroidery. It uses water-soluble non-woven fabric as the base fabric, uses viscose filament as the embroidery thread, and then uses the computer tablet embroidery machine to make the water-soluble non-woven fabric melt after hot water treatment, leaving the three-dimensional lace. Can be applied to all kinds of clothing and decorative items.
Warp Knitted Lace-Knitted Lace is made by warp knitting machine.
Woven lace-woven by a jacquard mechanism to control the weaving of warp and weft threads. It is used more in minority patterns.
6. Lining: It is usually called lining cloth, which refers to the material used to cover the inside of the garment. Classification: natural fiber lining (cotton lining, silk lining), regenerated cellulose fiber lining (viscose fiber lining, copper ammonia fiber lining, acetate fiber lining), synthetic fiber lining (polyester lining, nylon lining)
List of varieties and specifications of lining
Name of longitude and latitude density root/10cm
(root or inch) warp tex (denier) weft tex (denier) basic structure
Wax twill 150(38)× 110(28) 13.3(120) with light viscose 18(32s) cotton yarn change twill
Wax thread feather yarn 177(45)× 110(28) 13.3(120) with light viscose yarn 28(21s) cotton yarn four twills
Feather Yarn 188.5(48)× 10.25(26) 13.3(120) Optical Viscose 28(21s) Cotton Yarn Four Twill
Human silk twill 216(55)× 110(28) 13.3(120) light viscose 13.3(120) light viscose four twill
Human silk feather yarn 165(42)× 114(29) 13.3(120) light viscose yarn 13.3(120) light viscose yarn four twills
Light satin feather yarn 196.5(50)× 122(31) 13.3(120) light viscose 13.3(120) light viscose five satins
Beautiful silk 283.5(72)× 139(37) 13.3(120) light viscose 13.3(120) light viscose four twill
New Feather Satin 196.5(50)× 122(31) 13.3(120) Light Vinegar Silk 13.3(120) Light Vinegar Silk Five Satins
Glitter silk 255.5(65)× 150(38) 13.3(120) with light viscose silk 8.3(75) acetate silk 2/2 twill
Acetic acid silk 196.5(50)× 130(33) 6.7(60) Acetic acid silk 7.2(65) Acetic acid silk plain weave
Copper Ammonia Twill 165(42)× 130(33) 8.3(75) Copper Ammonia Herringhair 11.1(100) Copper Ammonia Herringhair Twill
Plain Nylon Spinning 165(42)× 130(33) 7.8(70) Semi-gloss Nylon 7.8(70) Semi-gloss Nylon Plain
Twill Nylon Spinning 228(58)× 138(35) 7.8(70) Semi-gloss Nylon 7.8(70) Semi-gloss Nylon 2/1 Twill
Polyester beautiful silk 196.5(50)× 157.5(40) 7.5(68) semi-gloss polyester 8.3(75) gloss polyester 1/2 twill
230t Nylon Spinning 181(46)× 142(36) 7.8(70) Semi-gloss Nylon 7.8(70) Semi-gloss Nylon Plain
210t nylon spinning 228(58)× 157.5(40) 7.8(70) semi-gloss nylon 7.8(70) semi-gloss nylon plain weave
250t Nylon Spinning 165(42)× 130(33) 7.8(70) Semi-gloss Nylon 7.8(70) Semi-gloss Nylon Plain
190t polyester taffeta 181(46)× 142(36) 7.5(68) semi-gloss polyester 7.5(68) semi-gloss polyester plain weave
210t polyester taffeta 196.5(50)× 157.5(40) 7.5(68) semi-gloss polyester 7.5(68) semi-gloss polyester plain weave
230t polyester taffeta 196.5(50)× 157.5(40) 7.5(68) semi-gloss polyester 7.5(68) semi-gloss polyester plain weave
Fine grain silk 220(56)× 138(35) 7.5(68) semi-gloss polyester 8.3(75) polyester low stretch 1/2 twill
Star and Moon Satin 346(88)× 150(38) 5.5(50) Light Special-shaped Silk 8.7(75) Polyester Low-elastic Silk Five Satin
Cold Star Satin 259.5(66)× 126(32) 8.3(75) Light Special-Shaped Silk 11.1(100) Polyester Low-stretch Silk Five Satin
Brocade Satin 259.5(66)× 126(32) 8.3(75) Light Special-shaped Silk 11.1(100) Polyester Low-elastic Silk Five Satin
Power Satin 236(60)× 165(42) 2.2(20) Mulberry Silk 2.2(20) Mulberry Silk Plain
Foreign 199(50.5)× 165(42) 2.2(20) Mulberry Silk 2.2(20) Mulberry Silk Plain
Cotton gray cloth 236(60)× 228(58) 28(21s) cotton yarn 28(21s) cotton yarn plain weave
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